
The Old Town has been serving New Yorkers in the Flatiron district since 1892, long before this trendy neighborhood was even called the Flatiron district. While other bars come and go as often as the wind changes, this old bar has been faithfully serving up burgers and beers for more than a century.
“I mean, this is it,” said John Fundus, who has been a patron for three decades. “This was here.”
Originally founded by the Lohden family, the Old Town was bought by its longtime manager Larry Meagher in 1970. After he died in February, his family carried on the business. On any given day, chances are you’ll find one of the Meagher grandchildren serving up your tuna melt ($10.50) and pint of Brooklyn lager.
The restaurant’s interior is pure Old New York. Squint through the dusty front window and you can see the original pressed-tin ceiling and the sprawling 55-foot-long mahogany and marble bar. The menu is classic and unfussy: burgers (from $10.25), salads (from $5.25) and hot and cold sandwiches ($8.50 to $13.25) are prepared in the second-floor kitchen and lowered to the dining room in New York’s oldest dumbwaiter.
The Old Town’s burgers are longtime restaurant review heavyweights for good reason. Grilled to pink perfection, the juicy burger is smothered in gooey American cheese and nestled in a toasted bun. A generous portion of golden fries and a long slice of pickle accompany this model of good old American cuisine.
Even though the burgers have remained the same, the crowd has changed with the times. In the 1980s, the Old Town played host to a motley crew of regulars, truckers and artists from Andy Warhol’s nearby Factory. These days, it continues to resemble a Noah’s Ark of sorts. On Friday evenings, every imaginable demographic group is crammed into the bar area. “Everything and everyone here is changing so quickly,” Stewart, an Old Town bartender for 23 years, said. “I used to know everyone at this bar. But I only recognize one person here tonight.”
On the night in question, West Village hipsters squeezed next to regulars nursing glasses of Maker’s Mark. Frat boys and their 50-something counterparts bonded over pints of Guinness, while PR types clicked away on their BlackBerrys. Grizzly-bearded men discussed Tina Fey’s "Saturday Night Live" imitation of Sarah Palin, while elderly ladies sipped on small glasses of red wine and compared the Old Town’s burgers to those of the fast food chain White Castle.
But patrons agree – while the scene is constantly evolving, this old place will always attract a crowd. Fundus, who plans to keep coming for a few more decades, gestured expansively to the horde packing the bar behind him. “This just is New York,” he said.